Florence

Sienna

I really enjoyed my time at here. I met Courtney here. The busabout accomodation was break the bank expensive and I'd booked myself in there. Courtney on the otherhand had done some research and found a hostel for less than half the price... a steal realy. So I spent one night in each place. That kinda balanced the whole thing out.

We didn't spend much time together here but landed up travelling with each other for about three weeks. I enjoyed her company and was always worth having around. She is the cool unseamingly organised type who people like me can realy on. Plus she was a good laugh.


I went and watched a falconry show below the old town. Its a bit different when you're the only foreigner in a crowd of Italians. Especialy if you get your own comentry in English... all be it the shortend vesion. I didn't get any of the jokes! But besides getting jist of the comentry the show was very good.



There was also a Museum of Torture that I had a look in on. I'd never been to a museum like this before and got quite excited. I thought it would be great to see some of the instuments used in the middle ages. You know: the classic streacking rack, a cat-o-nine-tails, some pre-historic looking sergical utensils etc.

It wasn't great. Infact it was horrible. You could have gone through the entire museum not flinching... if you don't read the comentry. I did. They explained exactly how the instument worked, right down to the pain the poor haples victem felt. Often emphasising how the victems were a 'victem' of injustic and often be the case of superstition (witches and such). What got to me the most is they would give cases of where the particular torture instument is used in modern age. Africa was the most reported. The whole experieve put me off going to another museum like that. To think that we've been doing that sort of thing to ourselves for cunturies.

I also went to the Sienna Duomo. This is the most impressive Cathedral/Church/religious sight I'd been to on my entire trip. The structure is impressive and the interior art work the best I've seen anywhere.

I also decided to shave my beard off my last night here. This is a final view before it got the chop... 3 months growth, no shaving at all! You may wonder why it was taken off? I could take the bewildered stares, quizical looks and often rude leers. But the kids. I felt sorry for them. I kept scaring them. I don't know why, but that morning I brought a tear to a little boys eye!

Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast

Pompeii was amasing. I spent five and a half hours walking the streets of Pompeii. I took so many pics my camera died (most of them were so bad I had to delete them from my memory card. I have a policy not to delete anything... they were bad!). The only thing I regret is not doing a guided tour. I bought a guide book but its not the same as having someone talk you through the sights. Those Romans were a pornographic lot.




The Amalfi Coast was very relaxing. I stayed in a village over from Amalfi called Atrani. This is one of the places that I bumped into Tara. The drive from Salerno was very beautiful. I would say it is more scenic than Chapmans Peak Drive in Cape Town. It's certainly more dangerous regarding the crazy Italian drivers. I spent the entire day I had there relaxing on the beach.

Rome

This is a crazy city. I saw and was told the most outrageous stories. You would think you were in Africa with the amount of begging, thievery and pressing crowds. Again over touristed, expensive, rushed and rude.

I only had one full day in Rome so rushed from sight to sight. I was supposed to do an ancient Rome guided walk but I lost my ticket (note it was not stolen or pick-pocketed... my bad). I was so pissed it took me a while to cool down.


When at the Trevi Fountain I was sitting next to an Aussie couple chatting about the current state of each of our nations rugby teams (I have no idea what state the Springboks are in, I just watch the game, so a lot of blagging) when a huge group of tourists stood up. Luckily I had my camera out and got a 1 in a 1'000'000 shot... no tourists in sight (except the half face of the girl in the corner).


Other sights: Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Vatican City, Sistine Chapel and a whole lot more I can't remember the names of. Unfortunately my camera died when I got the the Vatican so have no pics of it.

Venice

Venice is not what I thought it would be. It is over touristed, expensive and not much to do but walk over a million bridges and down narrow alleyways. Not as romantic as I thought it would be. Thank goodness for the people I met there: Lisa, Kristian and Ashley and Mark . There were a lot more people but can't remember their names.



My first day in Venice I learnt the art of sleeping in churches. I would walk for about 20 minutes, get tired, find a church and catch a few zeds inside. This saw me through the day. Also ate about five gelati. They were excellent and this is from someone who doesn't like sweets.



The second day I just chilled at the pool, worked on my tan and had a massive water fight with Lisa, Kristian, Ashley and Mark. That evening we all went off into Venice for a nice romantic meal. We couldn't find a place that we liked so we filled up on pizza slices (they are an economical meal).

On the way home Lisa and I had a romantic kiss on the Ponte di Rialto. The next day I left for Rome.

St Johan in Triol (Austria)

This place is much like Interlaken but on a smaller scale. I didn't do much here. Walking around town, chatting with Bob (an 80 year old Canadian on Busabout. I take my hat off to him!), afternoon beers with Debbie and Marty and karaoke with the Top Deck group. The evenings wouldn't be complete without a whole night of Bob's snoring.

I award Bob first place for being the worst snorer I had in four months in Europe. He gets points for sounding as if he were drowning.

Bob, Miles and I had to share a room together in a pension. The hostel had been booked up by Top Deck. As the three of us enter the room, with the proprietor and a person from the hostel, we notice there are only two bed, a single and a double. The proprietor tried to explain in broken German that the double is in fact two singles. It just so happens that they are both in the same bed frame. Yeah right!

Miles makes a b-line for the single and tries to claim it for himself. Bob summarily kicked him off, much to my relief. I don't mind sharing but I think an 80 year old man needs his space. Especially this one.

The night life wasn't to bad. The hostel was attached to an Aussie bar so there was a bit of liveliness. I can't remember her name (I wonder why?) or her mom's but this Aussie girl I met up with was a damn good singer. The two of them were a good laugh.

Munich - Round One

Busabout sells tickets to some activities available in the destination we are headed for. On this day the main item being promoted was the Munich Beer Crawl. I thought I didn't have anything better to do that evening so, what the heck, might aswell go do some beer tasting.

I had sometime to kill so went up to my room and just relaxed a little. There I met Brad and Chantalle. A really great couple from the States. Both were teachers at a College in the States. Brad had finished working as a summer camp coordinator. Chantalle had come to join him for a few weeks before they went back to work. I saw a few pics of the two of them at La Tomatina. It looks as like they had a great time there. Jealous.



I invited Brad and Chantalle to come along with me to the Beer Crawl. They were willing participants. We met up with Sally (beer drinker of note) and a few other Kiwis and Aussies from Busabout. Sorry for not remembering their names but I know they will understand.

The Crawl goes as such:

• An hour of drink as much beer as you can. Including two Jagermister shots (vomit material)
• Off to the first beer garden - Hofbrau House (I think)
• Then to the Augustina Beer Garden (I think)
• Then to another beer garden (I think but not sure on this one)
• Then to a bar next door to the hostel we were staying in.

The evening started off really well. Isac our American tour guide was excellent. He is a brilliant entertainer and knows how to handle his drink (mix it with a little/lot of lemonade). His predecessor had to quit from corrossis of the liver. Isac soon laid down the basic rules:

• No vomiting
• No making a fool of yourself
• No stumbling while you walk
• There were a few others but I can't remember them. You get the jist.

The whole objective of the above rules is to win what the Aussies call a cuzi. A bit of material that looks like a wetsuit cut-up that you slip your beer into to keep cool. I say if you need one of those you obviously don't drink your beer fast enough!!! (My true belief in the rules is that it keeps the clients in line and gives them something to aim for besides getting rat arsed pissed... very clever, smart in fact)

Here is a short video from the tour:

The last thing I can remember from the evening is being on a tram to the Augustina Beer House. Apparently we had a good time there and eventually landed up at the bar close to the hostel. I believe I was in the running to win the cuzi, until I got caught having a cheeky vomit in the men's (I refer you to the rules above). I felt bad the next day for loosing the cuzi as Brad and Chantalle had backed me as a sure winner.

I think because I lost the cuzi, it was late and I realised I had drunk enough beer I headed home. At about 6am some Canadian girls shakes me awake and tells me to get out of bed. I had never done that before and jumped straight out of bed in fright. The Canadian tells me I was in someone some English girls bed (who had obviously just come home). I apologise and start looking for my bed.

The Canadian girl looks at me and asks what am I doing... this isn't my room. Hungover and tired this is a bit of a shock to me. More so when I realise she's telling the truth.

I'm standing there in my shorts, no camera, wallet, mobile or room key! I start rummaging for my stuff when I'm told quit emphatically to get out. I ask what room number this is, still not wholly believing this isn't my room. The Canadian tells me its room 312 and to get out. I'm in room 101. So I get kicked out.

When I get back to my room all my stuff was on my bed, neatly laid out waiting to go for a day of sightseeing.

The following night was a fairly quiet night. I had a few quiet beers with Brad and Chantalle as they were off early the next morning. My third night in Munich was much the same as the first. I met up with a two Scotts and and Irishman: Fiona Stephen and Gary. In true Irish and Scottish hospitality they got me absolutely wasted. We played some drinking games and after a lot of beer and whisky landed up in the bar.

This is the night I first met Lucy. Because Gary and I had lost the most at the drinking game we had the most to drink. Then some smart arse comes up with the idea if we kiss a girl that will take ten drinks off our total required. Thus the more girls kissed the more drinks come off. You can imagine the score was ridiculously high. I aimed for the prettiest girl in the bar, Lucy, got denied and went for her mate. Score. I went to bed soon after that.

Sorry Lucy... I did remember that night, but a long while after we became friends.

Lucern

After a night in Paris and one night at Rogers in Interlaken I was off again. This time to a Swiss town called Lucern. I thoroughly loved Lucern. After all the partying in San Sab and being on the road for two straight nights a laid back town with not much to do was all I need.

The afternoon I arrived I walked the entire town flat. There is a large pedestrianised zone with some great shops (filled with expensive brand name clothing, Swiss Army Knives and other Swiss tourist paraphernalia). Also, a large section of the old town wall with a part of the rampart you can walk along.

For me being there was a dream come true (one of those things you promise yourself when you're a kid you'll do before the day you die). I can remember watching the old SABC 5pm news reporting on how the Chapel Bridge had almost been completely destroyed by an arson attack, including many medieval paintings. I promised myself I'd see the Bridge before any other damage came to it. Dream come true: tick!

There were a few other surprises the town had install for me. A second bridge similar the the Chapel Bridge, shorter and a few years older, but with no damage to it besides ware and tare. The Spreuer Bridge has some very cool medieval paintings with death depicted in all of them. Some are quite comical.

The Glacier Garden is a treasure trove in itself. There is the 'glacial garden' (bedrock with some potholes and grooves where the glacier slid), the Glacier Museum, an old Swiss house and my favorite the Hall of Mirrors. This was a display for the 1896 Swiss national exhibition.

Along side the Glacier Garden is my favourite monument in all of Europe! The Lion Monument is a dedication to the Swiss Militia who fort for the French Royalty during the French Revolution. I spent many hours sitting in the sun gazing at this sculpture. I even fell asleep looking at it. A kind Korean couple woke me up and offered me some nuts (I think to keep me awake).



The Picasso Museum in Lucern is also one of my favourite museums in Europe (I clearly didn't go to that many museums). It is a series of photos taken in the last 17 years of Picasso's life with a few examples of his work. I found it very insightful to who the man was.

P A R T Why? Because I Gotta!



Welcome to San Sebastian! This is my favourite party place on the whole trip (I didn't get home before 6am every morning).

I arrived in the middle of some festival being held at San Sab. No accommodation booked, I thought I'd do an all nighter and catch the bus the following morning. Luckily, the hostel/tourist board (I'm not sure which one they were) found a bed for me in Kati's Pension. A wonderful old lady who miraculously converts her home into a sardine can during the summer months.

A few fact about San Sab Old Town: It has the most bars per square meter than any other place in the world. Kati's Pension opens onto the street with the most bars in it in the whole of Old Town. Organised!

I met some great people while in San Sab: Mark, Justine, Ange and a whole lot more people I can't remember their names (don't be surprised).

There was an international fireworks display on at the time. It was to last for seven nights and get better every night. I only saw the first three nights and was amazed at how much fire display you can put into 45 minutes. Definitely will do again!

Sorry for not blogging for so long. There just arent any internet cafes in Europe. This is the first one Ive found for a long time. I promise!

A funny story (this is a conversation I had with Harry on the inet):

declannh: went on a pub crawl in munich
12:50 had memmory loss but got home ok
some chick wakes me up and says im in her bed
lank confused i get up and ask what room i'm in
Matthew: lol
declannh: she says room 312
12:51 im in room 101
Matthew: lol
fuck, you must have been smashed
declannh: i start looking for all my kit... camera wallet etc but cant find anything
12:52 im only in my shots.. no shirt ni flip flops
eventualy get to my room
knock on the door and they let me in
everything was there on my bed.
12:53 who knows what i did?
Matthew: lucky

Return to Madrid

The road trip back to Madrid was a long one. I left Torla at about 1:30pm and got back to the hostel around 11:30pm. All the time switching from bus to bus, although this time getting back to Madrid was a lot easier than finding the Pyrenees. Most Spaniards have heard of and know where Madrid is.

As I was laying down to get some shut-eye I hear this woman start moaning (at this point let me describe the physical positioning of my room: it faces into a quad that goes from the ground floor to the eighth floor. I'm on about the fourth floor. Because of this long quad/vent thing you can't hear where the noise is coming from as is echoes up and down the vent!). At first I was quite taken aback. Then it starts getting louder. All sorts of moans and groans that just seem to be going on for an age. If I weren't so tired I might have enjoyed the voyeur element a bit more, but I just waited for them to get on with it.

And so I waited. This guy was a champ. If I knew who he was I would proclaim him my hero, he was making the most of his time. Her moaning just got more and more ecstatic, louder with more guttural groans, until... there was silence!

Thank goodness I thought to myself, but no. With real consideration and passion in her voice (with a slight American accent I have to add!) she askes "So, are you satisfied now?" .

"After all of that I hope he IS!!!" some guy blurts out. What a laugh I had after that.

The Pyrenees

As I had been partying a bit with Ben and co, the morning I was to leave for the Pyrenees I missed my bus and had to catch a later bus. This is where my Spanglish come into practice. I had to catch 5 buses to get to Bielas. I got there at about 9:30pm but enjoyed the trip.

From Bielsa I started my hike to Refugio de Ronatiza. I covered the 12 km in good time but was to late to tackle the first pass into the mountains. I made camp there and spent the day doing short walks. I then got back to my camp late afternoon only to be told I was not allowed to camp there because the site was reserved for a scout group. As much as I protested and told them I was also a scout they still kicked me off the site. They obviously didn't speak any Spanglish!

The next day was a bitch! I did a 1100m assent within 2km. That means its very very steep. The day before I spent some time chatting to the ground staff at the refugio (it was more like finger pointing, head shaking and shoulder shrugging with a few words thrown in with 'o' or 'a' attached to the end. No intellectual discourse). It was approved, after the girl gave me a good eyeballing, that I would be able to do the assent in 5 hours... it took me 8... with no breaks.

I finally made it to my camp at 4pm. This is after an 800m descent in 6km. Not much better than the up but very picturesque. I slept in a quaint little stone hut... for two nights. The massive ascent then descent killed me. I stayed put here. Didn't even do any short day walks. I have decided the National Park should be rebranded a national highway. I thought I would get some peace and quiet during my recovery time, but no way. A constant stream of people kept passing MY humble hut.




The forth day of hiking, fully recovered, was very pleasant. There were some technical sections but overall a pleasing walk. I left the stone hut late and arrived at Refugio de Goriz early. Great. Some more rest time.

That night I woke up with the worst stomach pains I've had in a long time. I went to the bathroom but no action. I also tried to force myself to vomit but that didn't work. I had planned to climb Monte Perdido the following morning. If the cramps lasted any longer all thought of doing so would disappear.

I climbed back into bed and woke up really late. 8:30am I got up and the camp was empty. Everyone had a two and half hour lead on me and I still wasn't keen. I had a quick breakfast and packed my camp by 9am. As I was leaving the refugio I thought: "Hey, you're here now and this is what you came to do. So get it over with!"

So I ran up to the peak and down again in 5 hours (brag time: advised minimum time is 8 hours). I was the last to leave and the first one back. What a champ!



I arrived back at the Refugio Gorith just after 2pm, had a quick lunch there and headed for Torla, a gateway town to the Pyrenees. The rest of the hike was uneventful. I spent the night in Torla and got back to Madrid the following evening fairly late.

I love Spain. What a great country this is! It kinda reminds me of home with the laid back approach to work and life... yet things do get done if at times frustratingly slow (like ordering at McDonald's). The people here are so open and friendly it doesn't matter if you don't speak their language. My Spanglish is coming along quite nicely now. I have narrowed down all the essential words as follows:
si - yes
no - no (quite convenient)
manyana - tomorrow
no problemo - no problem (can do or yes)
grazias (sp?) - thanks (the z is pronounced with as th)
and a whole lot of finger pointing on a map and head nodding or shaking
occasionally a shoulder shrug brings about a new approach from either party
it also helps to know place names!

There are three things I've noticed about Spain that need mentioning:
1. The hair cuts:

If aliens were to land and judge each country by their hair styles the Spanish would win the wacky award (by far).

For the guys to have a "business on top party at the back" sporting a mean mullet, side temples shaven and a piece of thread breaded in you are king. Or you could go for the simple once over with an obscure piece left uncut about 5cm long randomly selected about the back of your head... you still in the cool league.

For the girls anything goes from a no. zero all over to fancy colour effect to things breaded in. What gets me is the fringe cuts. Every girl you meet has a fringe. It does make them look cute.

2. The architecture:

I must say they know how to make a building look good. Driving up to any obscure town in the dessert the apartment blocks have a good look and feel to them. But not just the housing, all new buildings have a modern feel and look that I like.

3. Sculptures

The Spanish are not shy on expressing themselves with art. Everywhere you go there is a piece of art work. Driving along the highways I'm always delighted to see a great big hunk of something that can be construed as art in the middle of nowhere.

I'll put more pics up when I get the chance

"One Night in Madrid"

I met the coolest Finish people in my dorm room. Jo-jo and ST, brother and sister from Scandinavia, and Ben (an Aussie dude on his way to Liverpool) all up for a party 24/7. Within 5 minutes of walking in I had a drink in my hand (not a soft drink) and was on my way to a good night. Ben had been partying with them for a few nights (and a few more before that) so when he recovered we were all off to a club. Needles to say I only got to bed after the sun came up (well before the others).

Most of my day time in Madrid was trying to organise to get to the Pyrenees to do some hiking. I had misplaced the pamphlet Shonny had given me so it was a bit of a mission getting information. It seems most Spaniards didn't even know they had a mountain range bordering on France. But persevere I did and finally made it there.

Valencia

This is a great city. A bit on the small side and quiet. I think its a university town so not many people were around. There is some great modern architecture here too. The river that ran through the city flooded every so often so they diverted it with a canal and made a long winding park along the course of the river. At the bottom end where the new part of the city has gone up there are a few museums great just to look at (expensive to go in).

The Americas Cup is also being hosted from here so I went to go look at the South African team (Shoshaloza) base. Not much to comment on here. The boat wasn't in.

Barcelona

Shon, you were absolutely right in what you told me about Barcelona. What a magical city! Well worth the 5 nights I spent there. I could have done more. There is so much to see and do... and cheap too.

I can't tell you everything that I did and saw (besides lots of walking and gawking). Here are some: The Fort, The Palace, Park Guel, Sagrada Familia, beach (went for a swim), Cathedral, a Roman Temple, Roman Ruins, the Old Palace in old town, watched the German F1 in a local bar, ate Paella (sp), the Spanish Arc de Triomph (they have the audacity to use the same name) and lots of Gaudi and other Modernist building.

I was a busy lad. Party til late and up early. Not cool touring with a hang-over but its gotta be done.

Avignon

Avignon was once a home for the Pope in times gone by. And that is a long time ago too. Its a great place to walk around. Within the old city walls (which are impressive) is a maze of similar looking streets and alleyways. I spent a good part of a day walking in circles trying to find my my out.

That was the hottest place I had been to yet: 42 deg C. I drank 4.5 l of water in a day. A personal best. If only it were beer but that's more expensive thank gold (and crap too... see above).

Nice

Nice isn't such a great place but its advantage is access to the 'French Riviera'. And the avg temp was 38 deg C with 60% humidity. It was hot!

On my first day I went on an organised day trip to St Tropez. I saw Mohammad al Fayed, George Michael and many other millionaires homes' in 'millionaires bay'. We were told there was an open bar on the 3 hour cruise we took around the bay. That sold me. But what they don't tell you its the cheapest and crappiest beer they could find in all of France and the trip is potentially 3 hrs. We were on the water for 2 hrs. But hey, I've been to St Tropez.

The second day I caught a bus to Monaco. Went for a swim, tried to get into Monte Carlo but didn't have any ID (will do that the next time I'm there), walked up to the Palace, paid for a very expensive sandwich and walked the F1 circuit.

That night a group of guys wanted to redeem themselves not going to Monaco so we headed off to the casino in Nice. Unfortunately we got bounced at the door for wearing inappropriate clothes. What I don't understand is I could get into Monte Carlo wearing flip flops and wet pants. Go figure.

Its a sad day today. I left Interlaken to carry on the European Tour. Had to be up at 6am to pack my bags, walk to the train station to be at Lautebrunen by 8am. Made it with 1 minute to spare.

What a wicked time I had in Interlaken! Thanks to Roger, Erica and Sachel (sp?) for putting up with me living in their lounge for 2 weeks. The time flew by helped by Roger's very humble hospitality. Thanks Rog for all you did and organised for me.

As you can see I was quite busy: hang gliding, Canyoning, Rafting and more. Rog also loaned me his bicycle. Bugger those dudes on the Tour de France: "I'm the king of the mountains"! I cycled everywhere I went. Part of the reason I slept so well at night.

More thanks to Bernie and the guys at Vuelo Alto for letting me work and giving me a free flight. How amazing that is I cannot describe! The sensation of being free in the air like that is exhilarating.

Hang gliding

Canyoning

Horay - Lets celebrate! My shoes and camera have arrived! A big thanks to Shon and Ruth. I didn't have to wait long so I'm back on track.

And a big thanks to Roger the dodger, a 'manouverer' of note. Not only is he a Visa-organiser par excellence! But a work agent too. I arrived in Interlanken at about 11:30am. First time I see Rog in 1 1/2 years he skips all the pleasantries and jumps straight into it: 'Hey Dex. What you doing this afternoon? You keen on doing some driving?'

So, I've been doing some driving for this guy Bernie. A half Swiss-Aussie running his own hang-gliding operation. His girlfriend is his usual driver but she's gone on strike. And the good thing is I've earned some Francs in the most expensive country in the world... tax free baby.

The Swiss International Open hang-gliding champs are going to be held this weekend. I'm looking forward to that. What a sight! Some 60 - 70 gliders in the air all on a cross country marathon.

A word of advice to the adventure buffs: Don't come to Switzerland to go White Water Rafting. Its better to say you haven't rafted here than to say you have.

What a mission it is getting a French Shengen visa. I had to go to the embassy three times before they issued me with a visa. Just in time too. I got it the day before my bus left London. Thanks Mom, Matt and Roger.

Crossing the Channel was ok. I got to wave to the white Cliffs of Dover. You don't see as much as I thought one would but hey... I saw them.

There are a few essentials that are required when going backpacking: camera, rucksack, sleeping bag, money, shorts, shirts, underwear (not essential for some people I know), passport, shoes etc. Guess which of these I don't have!

Camera - I ordered a camera from eBay which hasn't arrived yet. To Shon - they confirmed it was sent to Gainsborough.

Shoes - What an idiot! When I left London it was a very hot and sunny day so I thought I'd wear my flip flops. I didn't even consider putting shoes in my bag. So my shoes are still sitting at Ruth's place stinking out her house.

I'm gonna see how far I can go without shoes. I'll let you know!