Gate-crash Venezuelan Party

Bus to G`town and meet Monique

Bus to Lethem

Boa Vista and Money Exchange

Museums and Bus to Boa Vista

Manaus - Cheers to All and meet Monique

I met Liam and J-Mike for breakfast and we headed out together to go and have a look at the Amazon Theatre. I really enjoyed the guided trip and learned a lot of the history of Manaus from this. I also got to hear the choir practising for a concert the following day.

We then returned to the hotel as they had a flight to catch at midday. While waiting for them in the lobby I met a local Brazilian from Sao Paulo. He had a very cool story for me which lifted me up a little. I'd been feeling a little blue as all my travel companions were moving on and I was left alone. Not something I am afraid of but I did get quite attached to James and Mianne and now I was left with no one. The story goes as such:

Cesar had come up from Sao Paulo (the family home) to visit his brother who was based in Manaus some years ago. While visiting his brother Cesar met this lady who he befriended. Over the years one thing led to another and they started having a long distance relationship. Have a look on a map of Brazil and see how far apart these two cities are. That is a proper long distance relationship.

So after maintaining this relationship for a few more years Cesar decided it was time to formalise their relationship. When I met Cesar he had just gotten the 'nod of approval' from her father the night before.

Cesar's good fortune put me in a better mood and I was ready to face the day. I then bade Liam and J-Mike cheers and the best of luck. I was off to go do some emailing.

The first inet cafe I went into is across the road from my hotel but also the shittiest inet cafe I have ever been in (even worse than the one I'm in now). After waiting five minutes for my gmail to open this girl walks in, sits down, three seconds later declares this inet cafe a crock of shit (my words but you get the picture) and storms out. I decided to follow suite.

Outside I happened to walk past her and informed her there was a better inet cafe around the corner. Straight away she picked up my accent and she knew I was a South African. It wasn't hard to figure her for an American. We started chatting and I found out she had been working in Guyana for a few months. Wonderful I though, I could get some advice from her on the lay of the land.

"Why on earth do you want to go there? Don't go!" was her response to my enquiry. This put serious doubt in my mind and unsettled me a tad. But, introductions made, we spent the rest of the afternoon looking for and going to a museum on Indians. Luckily, the more time I spent with Monique and the more I heard her talk about Guyana the more I wanted to go. So I stayed another night in Manaus so we could catch a night bus to Boa Vista together.

Fifth and Final Day in Amazon

This morning wasn't as early a start as before but we still went on a morning game viewing boat trip after breaking camp. I saw a snake in a branch overhanging the river and we went right under it. I'm glad it got away otherwise Elso might have killed it (with a long pole). We also saw a wounded pink dolphin which I assume is like a wounded terrestrial mammal... dangerous so stay well away.

We then made our way back to the floating house for lunch and eventually made tracks for Manaus (actually we made a wake).

I wasn't sure what I should do this evening: relax and stay at Hotel Ideal or catch a night bus to Boa Vista with Anthony and Chloe. I decided to stay as Anthony and Chloe seemed to be having a domestic and I didn't want to get involved. So I stayed.

James, Mianne, Liam, J-Mike and I all went to an Italian restaurant for dinner and then home for an early bed.

It was final goodbyes to James and Mianne whom I had travelled with for 28 days. A long time to be with anyone person (two in my case) in this situation. Thanks to the two of them for days of entertainment, companionship and friendship. I wish them the best of luck on their endeavours around the world. They plan to work in Aus in a few months.

Fourth Day in Amazon

Again we got up for an early morning boat game viewing. This one proved less fruitful but it was still great to be out and hear the sounds of the forest.

After breakfast we went for a very long bush walk. We went on quite an adventurous route that had no definite path. Elso used his machete to notch the trees for us to find our way back. Good thing he did that. Even with my 'superior' sense of direction I got lost after the first hour and couldn't discern which way was the direct route to camp (something I can usually do).

About halfway through the walk we came across a snake. The irony is we had just been chatting about snakes. Elso then continued to bash the diving daylights out of the serpent with a very long sapling he hacked down with his machete (good tool. I'm gonna get one for me.). This was to avoid being bitten by the snake. From three meters away. Right boet, I want to see a 60 cm snake strike three meters! Damn that Murphy dude.

We were also quite lucky to see white faced squirrel monkeys. Apparently they are quite rare. And we also saw some trees, a few more trees and yet some more trees. You get the picture.

This evening while a most delicious roast chicken dinner was being prepared a few of us had quite an intense debate against Mianne about "human existence and competition". Or something to that effect. All I know is we were right and she was wrong. Simply from sheer numbers we were right!

This night I got eaten alive. I couldn't spend two minutes outside without getting at least a million bites. Even in my mozi/jaguar proof hammock effort I was eaten (by the mozis, not a jaguar).

Third Day in Amazon

We had an easy start to the day. I skipped breakfast in preference to a few more minutes lie-in in my hammock. Its only once the chickens and cockerel came scratching around the room did I decide to get up.

There was a long wait before we headed off. We waited a while for Anthony to charge his camera battery. If only I had taken mine! It also gave us time to dress the caiman tail. That's me skinning the flesh from the meat below. I've moved on from carving chickens at family meals.

I really enjoyed my time with the family and seeing the lifestyle they lead. I got a real positive feeling from seeing how relaxed they were and happy with what they had. In western terms it wasn't much but the love, friendship and happiness the community had was radiated among all the members thereof.

From there we headed into the jungle. Once we got to camp (which was 99% constructed already) lunch was prepared... mmm... caiman. It is actually quite tasty. I think unlike crocodile meat there is a bit of an unique flavour to caiman. But yes, it does also taste a little like fishy chicken.

We then went on a very cool bush walk where we learned a few tricks. The pic below with my hand on an ants nest was a god send. You let the ants cover your hand and then you rub them to death over your arms and exposed areas. They have an oil in them that repels all biting insects: mosquitoes and the like. But be warned! They do find their way into your pants. Not cool having one of those suckers biting your balls. It may look funny but it don't feel funny!

Back to camp for dinner and you cant guess what... caiman! The exact same as lunch in true Brazilian style. I'm glad some things never change. But we did make our own spoons by carving bits of palm and we ate off of leaves we had to construct our selves.

I had a relatively mozi free night in my hammock but by the sounds of everyone else they got attacked something terrible. I'm sure a jaguar would have been welcome. At least you can see your foe.

Second Day in Amazon

Bloody technology. Just spent about an hour updating this date and lost it all when I tried to post. I'll be dammed if I'm gonna try and update now. Here is a summary:

Early morning 'game viewing'
Centipede land on my foot
Find sloth
Long boat ride to village
Lunch is dodgy chicken and tapier meat
- I even went and a web site http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10&um=1&hl=en&q=tapier&btnG=Search+Images
See how they make that horrible powder from 'Manyok' (sp?) root
Gringo's vs Brazilians football match. We loose 20 - 5!
Eat horrible piranha soup for dinner
Go spear fishing and find a black caiman.

This was some of the funniest stuff I have ever written. Seriously!

First Day In Amazon

This morning we said cheers to Pix. I wish him the best of luck as he was going on the boat for another 11 days. Thats a lot!

We then met up with the rest of the group going on the Jungle Trip: Anthony and Chloe (who were also on the Clivia with us from Belem), and J-Mike and Liam (who have both just finished Uni at Notre Dame - of Ruddie fame). Elso was to be our guide for the five days in the Amazon.

A taxi ride to a port and we were on the Amazon again to get to the south bank. We stopped off at the point where the Rio Solomains and the Rio Negro meet to form the Amazon River. Its a bit like where the flows into the .

From the south bank port we took another taxi to get to a tributary of the Amazon where most of our time would be spent. Once there we got onto another boat and travelled at a leasurely pace enjoying the forest and sights on either bank before we got to our first camp - a permanently floating house. We relaxed for a while there and then went for a magical boat ride through what I call the sunken forest (actually the flooded forest).

The feeling of being in this ancient environment was truely wonderful. Especially with the silence we maintained. You could hear every insect, every bird call and the splash of an iguana as it drops into the waters so as not to be spotted by us.

Later that afternoon after lunch we went piranha fishing! Yeah baby! I cant remember the exact scores but mine was around 4 catches. Its very good fun and in a way thereputic.

From the pirahna fishing we went and watched the sunset from behind an egret (heron according to Elso) nesting area. After that we went caiman hunting and found a little beauty (about 40cm long) which we all got to handle. It was black caiman.

Manaus - Operation Tour Operator Hunt

Mission: find the best tour at the cheapest price possible.
Code name: Cheap

James, Mianne and I went to three tour operators and tried to find the best deal we could. The third guy we went to see got our bid at 600 Reals a pop for a five day jungle experience.

His winning arguments:

1 - We get a jaguar proof mosquito net. My mosquito net back home is lion proof (tried and tested) but this one comes with an additional feature. A hammock.
2 - We get to build our own jungle camp ie we get to play with our own machete.
3 - This company goes the furthest into the jungle than any other company.

All lies:

1 - The jaguar proof mosquito net was not mosquito proof.
2 - The jungle camp was already built. And they cheated by using a plastic tarpaulin. No palm frond roof.
3 - We didn't go as far into the jungle as promised.

But I still loved the experience. We landed with, in my opinion, an excelent guide - Elso. But he could spin a yarn.

Manaus - Day One

We arrived at port around 23:30 the night before and walked through a ghost town looking for a hotel to stay at.

I'm not sure what we did all of today but I know Zack had to get on a boat at 14:00 or so... for another three days. What a brave man!

I think the day was a right off after all the beers we had the night before. Just to make up for beer not drunk on the boat. Everyone tasted real good.

Fifth and final Day on Clivia

On day two Pix decided to start a fitness regime. All in aid to kill the boredom. On day three it was implemented. On day four it was stopped. I hurt my abs (yes like a little girl), which were sore for the next week. No more medicine ball exercises for me (using a five liter water bottle). But the kids did enjoy it and some of them got involved.

Our "Last Supper" was horrendous. I think they fed us chopped up cows udder!

Fourth Day on Clivia

This is the mum that fed her baby all day every day. Good boob watching. She didn't mind... I hope.



Pix entertaining kids.



This little cuttie is actually a mogwie, a gremlin is disguise. She is the daughter in the family we befriended.



Great sunsets every night.



There were a load of kids that always tried to board our ship (in comparison). This kid got it right but had nothing to sell. He did it for the sport I suppose. But there were others that brought fruit and other things to sell on board.



This is our boat. The Clivia, on the day of departure. Sounds funny!

The Clivia Society
Society for those desiring to know more about Clivia culture, development and photo gallery.

http://www.cliviasociety.org/



Yum, dinner, or is it lunch. Not sure.

Third Day on Clivia

The pics aren't in date order. As I said it was one long day with nights between.

Here you can see one of James` past times. He actually got on the boat very sick (as well as hungover) so he was man down for a few days. But he perseverd and made it to the other side in good spirits.



We got off the boat twice. Once at a small town which is the only place we had a beer the entire trip. It was a drying out session... and the beer on board was very expensive. Here I`m selling shares on the market.



This is the meet we ate. There was a full butchers station for them to hack, yes hack, the meat into manageable portion.



This is a beef curtain! At the posh dinning table. Engine room on the left. Ha ha ha!



Why don`t pirates smoke?
Because they wear patches!
Arrrrgh Arrrrgh mee matey!

Second Day on Clivia

By this time the boredom had set in. There was absolutely nothing to do. So we played with the kids on board. Pix was a good hand at entertaining them with all his antics.

We befriended a family that hung their hammocks next to ours. It was a great set-up. Pix would entertain their kids and they would give us cheese and other goodies.

Sometimes the boat would doc at a town and the locals would jump on board with a million things to sell from knick-knack to food. I went fore the food: ice-cream, coconut fudge, coconut biscuit, fried salted banana, weird fruits, drinks, cheese and other sweets. The coconut fudge was my favorite.

First Day on Clivia

The days all seem to have melded into one. Every day had the same routine.

Up before sunrise

Wait for Breakfast two minutes after sunrise - sweet coffee and a roll or biscuit if the rolls ran out.

Lunch at 10:30am (no jokes) - meat, rice, spaghetti, beans, coleslaw salad sometimes, water

Dinner at 15:30 (again... no jokes) - meat, rice, beans, no spaghetti and no salad (thats how you distinguish lunch and dinner), water.

We had the same dish for every meal for five days... straight!

Dinner politics: the men sat next to the mens ablutions and the women next to the ladies. Dinner was served in rounds as there were more people than seats available. We always aimed to eat in the last round and I tried to always sit at the ladies table: it`s a lot quieter, better view (sunset and women breast feeding!) and I found the company a lot better.

The posh people (in cabins) ate with the captain below deck... next to the engine room. ha ha ha. No conversation but they did get better food than us that included fruit and dessert!

The pick below is sunrise from the stern. And yes those are showers. Great for when its hot during the day.

Boarding the Clivia

Be prepared - thats my moto. For anything. So with blinding headaches we made prep for the boat trip. The lady from Hotel Fortaleza advised us to buy water for the boat and to get there early to get a good spot (as the Lonley Planet advises).

We bought the equivalent of 10 liters of water each (for five days travel) and got to the boat at about 12:30.

Humph! - The boat has filtered water on board. As much as you can drink in a lifetime. Its from the Amazon. And our boarding time was 17:00. So we sat with all our baggage and ten big bottles of water for a long time.

But we did meet a Brazilian dude who helped us establish our boat boarding status and a German guy, Wolfgang.

At five we were first in line to go through the customs check and almost last to put our hammocks up. While doing so we made friends with Zack, an Aussie guy on his way to Bolivia to do some volunteer work in a National Park before meeting a friend of his.

And that was our gringo party: James, Mianne, Pix, Zack and myself. There was a gringo tour group on their way to Manaus and some other gringos in cabins but we were traveling peasant class so didn`t spend as much time with them.

As they day drew to a close more and more and more and more people started boarding the boat. Much to our surprise. We all thought we had the prime spot as there were very few hammocks around us when we put ours up. By the time we left we had the most crowded section. With the exception of James and Mianne. Good advice - hang your hammock next to the stairwell.

Then we were off. No dinner on night one, glad I had that scrumptious soup for lunch!

"Today we spent preparing for the big boat trip up the Amazon to Manaus for tomorrow. I'll be under the radar for a while. Cheers

As luck would have it the boat we were supposed to go on, the Santarem has problems with the propeller. So the only thing to do is get drunk and wait to bored tomorrow evening on another boat."

Updated - This morning we met a guy named Pix at the breakfast table (breakfast at Hotel Fortaleza is coffee). My first thought was "Whoa, this guys a wild canon". He had tatoos all the way up both arms, on his legs and you could see his entire chest was covered in tatoos. He was explaining to us how he had spent the previous evening drinking cognac with all sorts of exotic shamanic additions, including: jaguar blood, anaconda blood, natural viagra and a host of other additions I dare not think about. After that he was given a "magical" (my words) cigaret which landed him in a cop shop for a few hours. Once he was released he got "rolled" for a few items he had on him and somehow found his way home. I think he`d actually been out with another Aussie bird to a club before coming home. He then went on to explain he was studying a psychology course that included natural medicines and traditional beliefs (I forget the technical term). He was on his way to Peru, Iquitos, to a shamanic natural healers meeting that only takes place every so many years.

Then the bomb shell hit. "Can I join you guys on the boat to Manaus?" My first thought was how we gonna loose this guy. I`m glad we didn`t. Pix was and is such an awesome guy to travel with. A natural entertainer that somehow attracts attention to himself thats entertainment for everyone around him. Thanks Pix!

When I wrote the above I thought I`d be getting on a boat called the Santarem and on my way to Manaus. But not to be. James, Mianne and I went in a scout this morning to find the best price on the boat that leaves that day. As it would be Hotel Fortaleza had the best price and we wasted the morning trudging around in the sun. The four of us (including Pix now) headed to the doc for the Santarem, with tickets in-hand, to hang our hammocks up (as advised by Lonely Planet, to get the best spot). When we got there there was a lot of "Portlish" to establish that the Santarem would not be going that day as "the propeller was broke". I couldnt think of a more lame excuse myself! Bloody lazy crew is what I call it. So there was nothing to do but head back to town, have some lunch and drink beer until the sun goes down. Not later.

Yeah, right! But the sunset was worth it.



"Happy birthday to mom. I'll have a beer for you."

Update - this video was taken in Manaus but was meant for your birthday Mom.