National Park of Six Cities - this national park is a geologists dream. A pitty I didn't understand our guide but hey, he didn't understand me.

Brazil: oops on its side

Long and very boring travel day! Except this morning James Mianne and I went to go see the fog (we actually went to see the sunrise but there wasn't one).

National Park Ubajara - The smallest park in Brazil. The main feature is a lime cave. Not as impressive as the Kango Caves but some cool formations inside. My favourite was the Breast Chamber.

Can you see the horse:



We also went to see the view from the escarpment:

A very long travelling day. Boring!

The sun and all the partying cought up to me this day. So I stayed at the hostel and read a book (pitty I couldn't keep it).

With my batteries recharged I had to go out and have that perfect Mahito (again):



Oops... part two:

This day we went on a buggy ride to fresh water lakes in the dune. It was great swimming in 'sweet water' and not scratchy salt water.

Beach day, dune jumping and sun set.

Beach day

At the bus station we met up with some other travellers: James and Mianne, a couple from the UK; Nattalie, half English half Brazilian (big help - she speaks Portugues); and Eran, Isralie. The bus ride out to Jeri was unevertful until we got to Jeri. The bus dropped us off in the 'town square' and left us to the sharks. There were about twenty people all trying to get us to stay in there accomodation (low season means slim pickings for them). Carnage I tell you - it was the nightmare of Salvadore all over again. I stayed with James to mind the bags while the other four went Possada hunting. They did very well at the end of the day. They decided to the best option was with Passada Senzala. A little more expensive but the best choice by far. The owner was a man named Itama who also owned and ran the local nightclub. Just to our advantage. The rest of the day was one long piss-up and I only got to bed just before the sun came up.

Most of the day in Fortaleza I spent walking around having a look at the town and walking along the boulevard. While in an Inet cafe Niall came online and co-incidentally he was also in Fortaleza. I hadn't expected him to be there on the same day as me. We agreed to meet later for a beer.



Later that afternoon I went to a big market (mostly for tourists). They had some weird things including crabs pickled in bottles of alcohol. The shop attendant told me it was very good. I believed him and left it at that.



At sunset I decided to go and catch the last rays from a stone pier that stretched about 750m into the ocean. It was the perfect spot to catch the shimmer of lights as they played on the highrise buildings on the coastline as the sun sank. While sitting on a rock this guy comes up to me and we start chatting in the small amounts of each others language we shared. I then began to worry about his intentions as he was asking me whether I liked girls, and how much so. I excused myself after he slanted that he likes men and winked at me. I made my way to the end of the pier where I noticed a few couples sitting on the rocks. On closer inspection some of the women could have been men. I then realised where I was. I gathered it was where gay men got together. A bit like Emmarentia dam. So I left them to it and said good bye to the chap trying to pick me up.



I found a spot close to the pier from where I could watch the sunset with possibly the same view as from the end of the pier. While sitting there in a daydream these two young girls came and sat along side me and we (as per usual) began chatting. They were very friendly and so I thought I could use them to help me learn some Portuguese. What they were trying to get me to learn was the gentle art of a Brazilian threesome for the handsome price of R$5. A bargain if you ask me but they settled for a photo of themselves instead.

I then met Niall for a beer (yeah right). It was good to catch up with him. Before we parted ways we arranged to meet at the bus station to go to Jericoacoara together.

From Natal I went on to Fortaleza. Most of the day was spent on a bus. There was an amazing Cathedral that reminded me of the Notre Dame with its flying buttress' and massive circular stain glass window in the front. It was started in the mid 17th century so is quite old.

After partying a little with the local kids the last night I spent the day on the beach just relaxing. But I did meet a guy with the biggest afro I have ever seen.



On the way home we came accross this cool graffiti. I dont think this picture does it any justice but it was cool.

The couple that ran the hotel said I could catch a lift with them into town. So after a lazy and filling breakfast we were off. As they live out in the sticks any trip into town has its errunds. This way and that. Giving people lifts from here to there. Chatting and shouting greetings through the window (I thought I was in Interlaken again - small town syndrome). I was wondering when they were going to drop me off at a bus stop so I could catch a bus back to Joao Pessoa. I'd seen plenty bus stops around, even the one I eroniously (but to my fortune) got off at.



Then we were off. After a brief enquiry they told me they wer going to Joao Pessoa anyway. Cool. No not cool. More errunds, here to there, this way that way, upping and downing. Then Piloe (I think thats his name) stops outside an appartment block and says "My childrens". Great, now what I thought, going to take them to boarding school in Sao Paulo before letting me off at a bus stop. I'd spotted them all!

The hottest daughter of anyone I have ever met climbed into the back seet along side me. Now I didn't mind the errunds we continued doing. She was cool to chat to. I told her of my time in 'Londres' and my guiding days. Then they bloody well dropped me off at the bus station. I knew I should have spent two nights at their hotel!

So I got a ticket to Natal and left that lovely lass behind.



I got to Natal fairly early and went for a walk along the promanade. At the end of which is a fort. I walked around the fort as it was closed and made my way back along the promenade.



By the time I got to the end it was dark with a full-on night time surfing competion. I stayed and watched that for a while where I met some local kids. They spoke very good English so I agreed to join them for a beer.



They then took me to a vantage point over the surfing competion. Not of the beat track or any place obscure. We were chatting and doing the general cultural exchange thing - my country, your country fact finding. All of a sudden this cop car pulls up, beams us with its search light and three giants of men come bounding on us.

A full body search on everyone (minus the cavaties). Wow, that was cool. They didn't find anything 'cause there was nothing to find. I told the other guys that was my first random stop and search by any cop. They broke into laughter and said "Welcome to Brasil!". High fives all around.

It was a peaceful night after that. They walked me home 'cause they wanted to make sure I got home safe. Very considerate of them.

I got up realy early to catch the sunrise from Ponte de Saixes. I packed mt gear in the dark and headed of for the long slog to the point. In half an hour I was there. Kicking myself for miss juging how far the point was from the camp I found a comfy spot and got another full hours kip.



I took this cheezy video to try and explain a bit more but the battery was running out and had to try a few times before it all came right.



From there I found my way on the road to Jacuma. My intention was to just spend the day there and then make my way to Natal in the evening. In Jacuma I jumped off the bus randomly. I couldn't have picked a more random spot to jump off than where I did. It was probably the furthest place from the sea that I could get. Even the locals looked at me as if I were daft. So I bought a bottle of water and started walking. I then realised how far from any sizable area of water I was when I crested a hill and saw the ocean wayyyyyy of there! So I picked up the pace.

About ten minutes into my swealtering mid-morning hike to 'I had no idea' a car pulled up along side and a lady yelled through the open passenger window "Praia?". "Si si" I replied. "Nome?" she enquired. "Tambarumbawamba" I replied, not knowing the actual name of the beach I wanted to head to. All I knew was it is the only regulated nudist beach in the whole of the North East of Brazil (according to the Lonley Planet - thanks Adrienne) and I was gonna go (the furthest place that I could possibly know anyone). To my reply the back door swung open and I joined the two occupants in the back. I did think for the briefest seconds that the four of them maybe a sadistic cult roaming the back street of Brazil looking for inoccent tourists to make shammy cloths from. But that disapeared after the name introductions. The rest of the 30 minute drive was done in silence on my part.

I landed in paradise.



The lady ran a resort with her partner as it so happens 200m from the nudist beach. Things were going my way. They agreed to let me camp for as long as I wanted. I only needed one night.

After charging the battery to my camera I was off to the nudist beach. Nothing could go wrong. I'd been psyching myself for day. I was going to walk up to the gate, pay my fare, go to the stripping area, take my kit off, layout my towel and go for a swim. FViews from the water would obviously be the best place to scope out the talent.

They only let you in in pairs. Phew! I stood no chance of getting in. I was off the hook. There was no way I was going to find anyone to go in with me there. I'd been told of the three kilometers of dessolate beach the other direction from the nudist beach. So I headed off there, found a secluded streach and formed my own nudist colony. That came to swift end when I could see a beach buggy approaching in the distance.



I spent the rest of the day walking along the dessolate beach at the end of which is a normal beach. I got some good perving time in there.

My last night in Olinda was a blast. It seems that Brazilians party on a Tuesday night (the same as Salvador). An Aussie girl (living in Canada), a Canadian girl and an Austrian girl and I all went with a few of the locals that lived at the hostel to a big party in Recife. We all got there at different stages but we hooked up with even more of the locals that the girls had befriended.

We partied in a square until that came to an end. From there we went to a street party where two superb bands were playing. Its a pity I didn't take my camera with 'cause they were great. We all stayed there until we had just enough cash to contribute to the 'get us home petrol fund'. 3:30am.

Martie (I think), the Austrian girl, shared the last of what she had to offer as a midnight feast - bread and butter. So I pulled out some hot chocolate sachets I had and we made a meal of it. This saved on the hangover to come later.

I left the hostel at 8:00am after a few hours sleep. From there I made my way to a town called Joao Pessoa (I still have difficulty pronouncing that one). The only reason I wanted to stay there was to go to Ponte de Seixas - the most easterly point of Brazil and South America. The plan was to walk there from my hostel the day after and from there go to a place called Jacuma for the afternoon.

It wasn't to be so simple. All the hostels were well beyond what I was willing to pay (why charge European prices when they are so far from Europe?). So I found a campsite in the town of Seixas and had my first night of camping in South America.

Whooo! Dinosaurs in Recife!!!

Museu e Oficina Francisco Brennand

This is a cool place. A gem in itself... if you can find it. I spent an hour and a half on a bus filled with students (side note: I read on the 'Metro' (free paper on the London Underground) a good way to while away youyr time while on public transport, amoung other things, is to find some 'eye candy' and enjoy the rest of the ride. I did just that... along with about twenty other older men on the bus. Lets say the female student population is quite high here. And they wern't to bad looking). At the end of the bus line its recommended to catch a taxi to the museum. Apparently its not safe and a long walk. I found it a very pleasant walk and not very far at all. It was a little frustrating as there is also and institute with a similar name. The locals couldn't tell the difference between a museum and an institute so I got the run around a little.

Mr Brennand inherrited the run down ceramic factory from his father in 1971 where upon he converted it into his studio. He has done very well out of the business that ensued and is apparently a well know ceramisist in Brazil.

I got up early this morning to get into town before the heat set in and I could to some decent sight seeing. I wondered the street for a good hour and didn't find anything of interest. I only saw urban sprawl and the nostril clogging hum of raw sewerage in the streets almost drove me to faint (some know about my week stomach to smells).





The actual part of the city of interest is on an island. When I came to a bridge I decided maybe the mainland was more interesting. Ha ha ha... I was on the mainland. I was surprised to find the 'Cultural Centre'. A prison that has been converted to a market. Each cell hold a stall with some very good upmarket handcrafts. There was a lot of tantalising stuff to buy (if I were a girl of course!).

I also stumbled on a brilliant market. The biggest I've seen yet. It took me about an hour and a half to work through and obviously came out lost on the other side. The rest of the day was spent checking out the remaining sights of the city. Nothing to note of any brilliance.

I got to Olinda OK. It's a small service town next to Recife which is a massive sprawling urban mess. They even have a metro but it runs overground. Olinda is quite bohemian and reminds me a lot of Melville and Yeoville in Jo'burg. There's a lot of good artwork available. You can also imagine a load of South American "carnies" running around.

I spent the day wondering around looking at the sights. Also wondered into a favella by mistake. There is a lighthouse set back against a hill and I wanted to see the view from there. It wasn't worth the slog up the hill but the looks I got were a story in themselves.



At the end of the day I was keen an a swim to cool down, but the sign bellow put me off:

Today I went to a place called Riacho Doce. This means sweet river. There was nothing sweet about this place. A smelly dirty small local fishing village. I went to go check out a hostel Niall and I had decided to stay at. When I got to the tourist info in Maceio they told me it costs between R$ 50 - 100 per night. They weren't wrong. Its a bit rich for my blood so I decided I'm not gonna stay there.

I spent about 30 minutes in that town and made tracks back to Maceio where I spent the remainder of the day sitting in the sun working on my tan. I did notice that the girls here aren't as fit as I first thought they would be. I'll report more on that in other towns.



Below is a video on the traffic light system. You cant see much but I hope it makes sence.

Maceio is great. What a difference it makes to Salvador. Its a lot calmer, cleaner and the people are 100 times more friendly. The guys at the hostel I´m staying at all joke with me because I cant speak Portuguese. They cant believe I´ve come all the way from Africa to see Brazil and cant speak any of their language. But I have gotten by quite fine. Maybe a lack of company to chat to over the past 2 days but I´ll survive.

I went on a tour at the Historical and Folk Lore Museum. It was just me and a middle aged milf as my guide. She too was bemused that I couldn´t speak any Portugase. None the less she still insisted I take the tour with her even though I didn´t understand a word. All credit to her she did try and teach me some of the language. Not sure how good a student I was but I must have impressed her some how. I landed up having ´cafe´ and ´busketa´ with her and all her amiga´s in the staff kitchen. We went through a list of everyday words and I´d give them the English equivalent. I cant understand why they laughed so much because most of the words were fairly similar to each other. I must admit, if they gave a word I didn´t understand I´d make one up for the English equivalent and blag my way through.

From the Museum I made my way to the Cathedral. It was closed so was stumped for ideas when all of a sudden I could hear the sounds of protest. "Not again!" I thought (I had to hi tale from a protest in Salvador when I tried to get an Entry/Exit card - another story. That was in the doc area so thought it not a good place to get caught. Plus they were all wearing read t-shirts. These guys were in white - assuming that's a lot safer). Apparently the student medical doctors to the local public hospital were protesting about something. Not sure what but I got a flier which I´ve included below (can anyone that reads Portuguese interpret for me please?).





I followed the parade for a while then got bored of it once I realised there was not much chance of any danger or violance (the sadistic side in me after being in Salvador for to long). I thought I´d wonder through the streets and see what they offered me. I found an open air shopping mall. It was great. Instead of being begged from I was offered a credit card (from citibank) even though I am not a Brazilian citizen. On hind sight I should have taken the offer. From there I found some magical buildings that must be several hundred years old, took a nap in a church (back to the good old days, just like Europe!) and got told off for not being careful about the non-existent dangerous and violent street kids. The guy had obviously never been to Salvador.

That afternoon I crossed to the other side of town. A stark difference. This is obviously where all the money is. There´s about a 8 km stretch of coasline being developed with high rise appartments. The beaches are good but polluted in the way of to much litter.

Salvador was not a good place. Niall, had met this local guy, Marcel, who has a lot of dealings in the tourism industry in Salvador. He explained how the street kids were all hooked on crack cocaine - which is obviously what made them such pests. They would go to any lengths to get money to organise their fix. I must admit I was conned out of a few Reals myself.

Niall and I were wondering the network of squares in Salvador. This kid approaches us and introduces himself as Junior (later he calls himself Mike so I don't think he really knows who he is). In his introduction he asks us in turn what our names are. When he gets to me there´s a big handshake and as big a smile on his face to go with it. Then only do I realise there is a small package in my hand. "Presensh. Quick put it in your pocket!" I duly obliged. You can see where this is going... Junior then gets to work on his magic (he´s had plenty practice). He goes from its a ´presensh´, to how much it costs (R$5/g), to how hungry he is, to how I owe him a ´presench´, to me getting very angry after buying him a hot dog and him demanding his ´presensh´ back unless I pay for it. It didn´t help that I threatened to call the cops. I think they would have taken his side. So he got his ´presench´ back. A good thing, it was probably only rat droppings!

That was a lessen to me. Never talk to street kids unless you saying "No obrigado" and thinking F-off. There were plenty more unrelenting beggars of varying talent, age and gender (some were ´trannies´).

I did see some good things in Salvador. The area I was staying in is called Pelourhino. This is the historic center and has a very ugly history. I gather most historic towns had a similar area dedicated to where slaves were beaten or hung. Areas of mass cruelty. Today its the center of all tourism in Salvador. The architecture must be the same as it looked 200 years ago. The pic below is taken from the square where all the beatings took place.



Tuesday nights were also quite festive. The streets come alive with a mini festival: beers, drums, bums, beggars, meet on a stick, cheese on a stick, beers, music, beggars, caiparhina (sp?), beers, music and bums.



When you start recognising all the beggars and actually cross the street to avoid them you know its time to leave.

This place is crazy. You cant go ten paces without someone offering you a good deal on drugs, a prostitute or random shit you´ll never use in a 1000 years. It´s time to go.

There are a few weird things I´ve noticed. An odd one is there cars. Xhibit can never compete with the wheels that have been pimped in this town. The bigger the mega blaster the better. I´ve seen cars with sound systems mounted that will put the Popes PA system in the Vatican to shame. Boom boxes of note.

A word of advice to anyone that does travel to this dump. Make sure you catch the bus in the right direction. You might just land up in a slum!

Landed in Salvador last night. The flight was uneventful but I did meet two guys who are old hands at travelling South America (Tinny and Prikesh). They were very generous with their advice and gave me some good tips and general advice.

I got up early this morning and was surprised to find breakfast was included in my hostel fee. Love the free stuff! I then spent the day crossing the bay on a ferry, cycling, drinking beer, sampling the local cuisine and generally getting sun burnt with an Irish guy named Nigel. Not bad for a first day I think!

Don't think I´ll hang around here for long. It is a tad boring and I´m keen to find an anaconda to tackle.

The idea was to post videos and pictures but that will have to wait until I find an inet cafe ´high tech´ enough to plug my camera in. So you´ll have to grin and bear the waffle.