Wednesday, May 09, 2007

Salvador was not a good place. Niall, had met this local guy, Marcel, who has a lot of dealings in the tourism industry in Salvador. He explained how the street kids were all hooked on crack cocaine - which is obviously what made them such pests. They would go to any lengths to get money to organise their fix. I must admit I was conned out of a few Reals myself.

Niall and I were wondering the network of squares in Salvador. This kid approaches us and introduces himself as Junior (later he calls himself Mike so I don't think he really knows who he is). In his introduction he asks us in turn what our names are. When he gets to me there´s a big handshake and as big a smile on his face to go with it. Then only do I realise there is a small package in my hand. "Presensh. Quick put it in your pocket!" I duly obliged. You can see where this is going... Junior then gets to work on his magic (he´s had plenty practice). He goes from its a ´presensh´, to how much it costs (R$5/g), to how hungry he is, to how I owe him a ´presench´, to me getting very angry after buying him a hot dog and him demanding his ´presensh´ back unless I pay for it. It didn´t help that I threatened to call the cops. I think they would have taken his side. So he got his ´presench´ back. A good thing, it was probably only rat droppings!

That was a lessen to me. Never talk to street kids unless you saying "No obrigado" and thinking F-off. There were plenty more unrelenting beggars of varying talent, age and gender (some were ´trannies´).

I did see some good things in Salvador. The area I was staying in is called Pelourhino. This is the historic center and has a very ugly history. I gather most historic towns had a similar area dedicated to where slaves were beaten or hung. Areas of mass cruelty. Today its the center of all tourism in Salvador. The architecture must be the same as it looked 200 years ago. The pic below is taken from the square where all the beatings took place.



Tuesday nights were also quite festive. The streets come alive with a mini festival: beers, drums, bums, beggars, meet on a stick, cheese on a stick, beers, music, beggars, caiparhina (sp?), beers, music and bums.



When you start recognising all the beggars and actually cross the street to avoid them you know its time to leave.

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